Audi Coupe with Porsche 944 Box Flairs

[FFF]

Keep the updates coming - two questions come to mind, target weight (if any) and what are your weight bias expectations with moving cooling to the rear of the car?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

[Einbilden]

Sorry for the lack of updates, but the have to do's heavily outweight the Want to do's.

Yummy.

Thanks:

Any updates on this project? Just read through the thread and I'm impressed...to say the least!

Here you go and Welcome.

Keep the updates coming - two questions come to mind, target weight (if any) and what are your weight bias expectations with moving cooling to the rear of the car?<br abp="674"><br abp="675"><br abp="676">Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Target weight is as light as possible (2800-2900 LBS.?) Weight bias expectations: Unless I got this wrong I believe that stock is 57 F 43 R hoping to get 54 F 46R . 50/50 would be nice but even the Works cars with all the stuff they had in the trunk are nose heavy as far as I know. Hoping to run bigger tire up front to help the heavy nose.

Made some angle frames for the rad intakes on the inside of the car and welded them in place. Also made mates for these frames with nuts on the backside and after these where bolted in the car started to connect the dots.

100_2802.JPG (735.28 KiB) Viewed 6061 times

Inside View

100_2804.JPG (645.61 KiB) Viewed 6061 times

Hopefully will get more done soon !

[mrdeye]

ONE question comes to mind, target weight (if any) and what are your weight bias expectations

I hope you’re planning on putting a more powerful engine in it, ‘cause it’s gonna be a sloth! Unless you’re just going for looks, it’s great. Isn’t it a cute lil fella?!?!

[FFF]

Looks great, I thinks that’s a realistic target. Your only technically adding a few strips of metal to the fenders and then the rear cooling work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Einbilden]

I hope you’re planning on putting a more powerful engine in it, ‘cause it’s gonna be a sloth! Unless you’re just going for looks, it’s great. Isn’t it a cute lil fella?!?!

Yes more power is in the plans. That is a cute little fella, i don't know what it is about that picture but the first think that came to my mind was NOSE RING!!!!!!!!!!!!.

Looks great, I thinks that’s a realistic target. Your only technically adding a few strips of metal to the fenders and then the rear cooling work.

Thanks and I let you guys know how heavy the car is when it is done. Not to worried about the weight to much as the car can use the weight in the rear and as PRY4SNO pointed out "Weight Gain Can BE Offset By More Boost"

Made tops for the Rad. ducting , added cross bracing and mounting holes/tabs.

100_2809.JPG (657.33 KiB) Viewed 5781 times

Next the have to come out for welding and grinding. Then the pieces will get straightened and clad with sheet metal. Then paint and reinstall plus seam seal.

[PRY4SNO]

These are some of my favourite updates to be found anywhere on the Internet. Nice to see evidence of continued progress.

[FFF]

These are some of my favourite updates to be found anywhere on the Internet. Nice to see evidence of continued progress.

Totally agree!!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

[Einbilden]

These are some of my favourite updates to be found anywhere on the Internet. Nice to see evidence of continued progress.

Totally agree!!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Thanks: PRY4SNO , FFF

Took the Rad. ducting frames out of the car and added tabs, holes/nuts where needed. Welded everything and ground all the joints. Then made sheet metal parts to weld on the frames. Lots and lots of sanding some primer
and once the sheet metal is welded to the frames they will get sealed primed and painted. Then they get bolted back in the car and all the bolted joints other than the top will get sealed as well.

100_2810.JPG (379.16 KiB) Viewed 5523 times

100_2811.JPG (472.7 KiB) Viewed 5523 times

[Einbilden]

That all looks like this now ready for more primer, seam seal and finish paint. Bolted all the parts together to check fit and make final adjustments. I swear this ducting appears smaller in the car.

Intake side

100_2822.JPG (470.66 KiB) Viewed 5388 times

Radiator side

100_2823.JPG (478.41 KiB) Viewed 5388 times

[Mcstiff]

That should help get some weight in the rear

[Einbilden]

That should help get some weight in the rear

Yes , Since the point was made and I was curious myself. The parts weight in at 91 LBS. and are all seam sealed plus primer. Why the chair???????? Next time car needs to move I will weight the rear seat and see whether the difference is positive or negative.

Last areas to be sealed and prime/paint

100_2827.JPG (503.91 KiB) Viewed 5144 times

Then finish paint the rest of the ducting and reinstall in car.

[Einbilden]

While working on the rear ducting floor piece and looking at water drainage needs. I decided on a rear diff. cooling vent that doubles as a drain. One new hole in the car and a three piece tube later.

100_2830.JPG (374.16 KiB) Viewed 5058 times

[audifreakjim]

That's a good idea. Don't want to be sidelined by a little rain in a quattro. It will also help if you put a belly pan in the rear.

[Einbilden]

That's a good idea. Don't want to be sidelined by a little rain in a quattro. It will also help if you put a belly pan in the rear.

Thanks jim , I do remember when you did your rear belly pan a while back and had good results with it. Your build thread as well as others will be consulted when my car is in need of those upgrades.

Progress:
Diff. duct is all closed up seam sealed and primed

100_2832.JPG (362.9 KiB) Viewed 4646 times

All the framing and bare metal that needed primer, seam sealed and paint is done

100_2835.JPG (285.57 KiB) Viewed 4646 times

All the rear rad. ducts are primed, seam sealed and painted and I stuck some outdoor carped in between the frame work. Here is the piece that is on top of the duct covering the radiator as well and wearing some Bling. All the other pieces just got the outdoor carped.

100_2838.JPG (1.01 MiB) Viewed 4646 times

[Einbilden]

Before the rear ducting floor was reinstalled in the car one last time, some plumbing needed to get done to carry the water to and from the radiator. That meant more brackets, welding, prime/paint, seam seal etc.

Plumbing done in areas that get covered

100_2840.JPG (448.46 KiB) Viewed 4439 times

And ducting floor back in the car plus seal seam

100_2841.JPG (494.51 KiB) Viewed 4439 times

Plan is to get the ducting sides installed over the tank area so I can locate the rear strut tower bar and get that made and welded in. Once all the sides are back in the car they will get sealed and then some rubberized undercoat should keep the water out.

[Einbilden]

After more painting of weld seams inside the car, I glued some outdoor carped on the ducts inside the car as well. Started making parts for the strut bar after that. At this point I have all the parts made that I need plus hardware for the bar. Some trimming and cutting to length and a few holes left to do and that will get welded in. After that some more radiator plumbing and final install of rest of ducting.

Mocking up parts for strut brace

100_2845.JPG (656.13 KiB) Viewed 4039 times

Moore soon I hope

[Einbilden]

Finished fabrication of the strut bar and getting ready to weld the mounting brackets to the car.

100_2847.JPG (596.9 KiB) Viewed 3653 times

[PRY4SNO]

Step by step, some nice incremental improvements going on here!

That strut bar looks pretty beefy, and it's cool that it's adjustable. What's the measurement side to side that you're looking for?

I've been wanting one for years, but don't want to sacrifice the rear cargo room with the rear seats folded down.

[Einbilden]

Thanks PRY4SNO

Yes that strut bar turned out to be heavy duty, but that was the goal. It was made adjustable to ease install after everything is welded (brackets, strut bar). Also it is my understanding that these strut towers are rather weak, so if I crank the adjuster hard, +/- 2 deg. should be available if needed. This would only be done after all other hardware is maxed/limited and as a last resort. Not looking for a specific side to side measurement. Unless someone has some secret measurements they would like to share, bar goes in neutral and I will go from there.

I feel you on the cargo room, but that's a mute point on this car. I have not driven a car with strut bar front or rear so plan is to run both ways to experience the difference. I did have a 1rst gen. rabbit/golf that i made a bar for to tie the front suspension under the car together. That mod. was such a huge change in handling and turn in of the car that when i get another one , that's the first thing i will do to the car.

[Einbilden]

All welded up and primed, seam sealed and first coat of paint.

100_2851.JPG (504.83 KiB) Viewed 2958 times

So because I wanted to know if the strut towers would move by turning the adjuster on the bar, after welding the brackets I grabbed it with my hands and twisted.
With just my hands I was able to move the towers +/- 1/8" to 3/16" for a total of 1/4" to 3/8".
Don't know if that's allot or hardly anything at all, but the movement involved with just my hands was a lot more than expected.

Bar drying

100_2852.JPG (815.08 KiB) Viewed 2958 times

Also drilled a hole in each of the towers to attach pipe hangers to hold the coolant lines for the rest of the radiator plumbing in the rear of the car.
Guess mounting the water pump (electric) might be next as that lives in the trunk also.

[themagellan]

Can't wait to see the finished project - thanks for the updates.

[the german]

Sweet! That bar is a beefcake.

Coupe Quattros have the chassis rigidity of a wet noodle.

[the german]

Sweet! That bar is a beefcake.

Coupe Quattros have the chassis rigidity of a wet noodle.

[Peters]

that rear bar is a must - I worked on a body repair CQ and got an appreciation for how little horizontal metal there is in the rear - the panel behind the taillights isnt the heaviest gauge metal and I think its spot welded with seam sealer. No wonder the hatches need constant adjustment to stop squeaking.

[Einbilden]

Can't wait to see the finished project - thanks for the updates.

I will hurry this up then!!!!!!!!!!!!.. and thanks.

Sweet! That bar is a beefcake.

Coupe Quattros have the chassis rigidity of a wet noodle.

Thanks and yeah about that wet noodle thing. I wish I had video of my face and body language when I twisted the adjuster. I don't notice it but people that have seen this tell me that the look of disappointment is genuinely amusing and unmistakable ......

that rear bar is a must - I worked on a body repair CQ and got an appreciation for how little horizontal metal there is in the rear - the panel behind the taillights isnt the heaviest gauge metal and I think its spot welded with seam sealer. No wonder the hatches need constant adjustment to stop squeaking.

Thanks for the info: You are correct about the taillight panel. Steel is the same thickness as the rest of the car and only spot welded and seam sealer. Now mine has a few big holes in it.

Made mount for water pump and mounted that at the lowest point in the system right after Radiator.

100_2853.JPG (498.64 KiB) Viewed 2561 times

Final version

100_2856.JPG (393.24 KiB) Viewed 2561 times

Also did some priming of the last areas that where still bare metal on the rear of the quarters/fenders so I can do the last of the seam seal as well. Trying to get the rear all done and sealed. Then turn the car around and finish the front. Cant wait to see the car from a distance, last time the rear wheel arch was not finished. Should look different.