While I'm In There... CGR Install & Stroker Prep

[PRY4SNO]

WAUGE08B6LA010727

Time I made a project thread, as I'm far along enough into this that there's no turning back, and I'm starting to need the BTDT kind of advice. :-)

Where better than here on Motorgeek? I've been lurking for some time, making a few n00b posts here and there but basically just reading and searching. Hope you OGs will bear with me as I am learning as I go along. Thanks again to those who I've PM'd along the way looking for direction.

I do have the Bentley shop service manual, and most basic tools available in a decent work space. Plus a beer budget and good family and friends to help.

So.

Car basics:
Purchased local car off local forum (eurodrivers.ca) in quite good shape with following mods:
- B4 hood conversion, Euro cabrio front/rear bumpers
- RS2 projector headlights, 034 wiring adapter
- K&N airfilter
- Stebro s/s catback exhaust, gutted cat
- Koni Yellow front struts w/ OEM springs
- new and uninstalled front RS2 sway bar complete with bushings <=== (INSTALLED)
- new and uninstalled rear 034 (? according to PO) rear sway bar without bushings
- According to PO, motor was "rebuilt" 40k km before purchase. That's the extent of my knowledge of the work performed.

Known/inherited issues:
- Odometer was FUBAR for approx 20k-30k km according to PO. He is an electrical engineer by trade and opened up the speedo found a faulty soldered connection to be the culprit. Worked fine since.
- Wandering idle (tried clean TB/ISV, spark plugs, no help)
- Cruise no worky (have used set up from fellow MGer installed, need control rod)
- Driver's side heated seat no worky
- Antenna is about to catch air any day now
- Rear wiper arm stops at top of cycle
- A/C needs charged, apparently works, according to PO
- Passenger mirror needs replaced, mostly obscured <=== (REPLACED)
- Window regulators/motors on passenger door needs repair (swapped but with no luck... Relay?)
- Tabs on RS2 headlights busted <=== (FIXED)
- 01A & clutch look to be hard done by, gear-shifts getting clunkier (have Redline MT-90 fluid and CGR trans)

Here's the car as I bought her, and what she replaced.

I'm pretty sure I made the right choice

[PRY4SNO]

Right.


Here are some photos to illustrate my progress to present time:

[PRY4SNO]

Anyone? Help, BTDT or tips/tricks are always appreciated!





















Knee bolster and steering column is next, then the firewall boot. I *assume* after all that I'm good to pull the PS rack?

[PRY4SNO]

Found gravel (!) and sand in my intake valves. I'll try to get better photos, but here's what I have for the time being:



What would you do?!?!?!?!?

[PRY4SNO]

Got lucky with an unexpected visit from a friend, and so now the steering rack is finally out. :woowoo: :woowoo: Required disconnecting a couple ABS brake lines and another couple brackets in addition to what I'd initially expected. :slap:


At the back of the rack are the supply/return fittings, and they were absolutely the hardest connections I've ever had to break, I swear. :frustrated: How we didn't break the banjo bolt with both of us reefing on it with everything we could muster I will never know. I busted two going an 1/8th turn past wrench snug when I previously replaced the steering pump, so I was a little paranoid but it held up fine.

Most impossible spot to work on the car, IMHO.




How's this going to line up for my tie rods now??!?




Next task is the strut top mounts, I'll work up front first.

Engine & bay degrease and clean. ==> what are you guys using? I'm thinking degreaser and scothbrite pads, water rinse and then a wd40 wipedown.




Timing belt ==> rocks in valve issue? can I blow it out with an air compressor or do the heads have to come off for inspection?

Reassemble/reinstall everything when my 034 order arrives.

Alignment.

OOOO

[Kliminati]

Nice job so far...keep up the good work

[fafwa45]

I really like how you document your work with a lot of pictures. I had a bunch of crap in my intake too and I just blew it all out with compressed air. Btw what does that snub mount bracket screw onto?

[PRY4SNO]

I really like how you document your work with a lot of pictures. I had a bunch of crap in my intake too and I just blew it all out with compressed air. Btw what does that snub mount bracket screw onto?

Thanks!!! The pics are a royal pain in the ass to start and stop to do again, usually requires glove removal/hand clean and positioning between each step, so naturally adds a lot to the time component. But the forums have given much to me already so I figure if this helps someone else down the road, then I've contributed my part in return.

By intake I meant valves, so to properly clean out and observe the situation, odds are I'll have to crack the head (= head studs and a head gasket). The snub mount bracket bolts into the crash rebar brace with crush washers. I opted to remove & delete the clogged/corroded aux radiator in the process. I can always take another shot or two if it helps. :-)

[PRY4SNO]

Got some initial degrease work done, ran out of spray product decided to call 'er quits for the night.

[mhorsfield]

what cleaning agent are you using?

[jbrentd]

Nice progress. You say you want to hang with your friends' S4s. What are you plans there?

[PRY4SNO]

Other than the battery box, I've degreased as much as I care to at this point. Someday when I pull the rad and the accessories on the driver's side I'll get a better job done, but for now I need to focus on mechanical maintenance.












UPCOMING:
- head removal --> have a look inside, and sleep well at night
- timing belt --> do I need to degree cams (see ^^^) first w/ head removal? If yes, how so?

[PRY4SNO]

Nice progress. You say you want to hang with your friends' S4s. What are you plans there?

Well I have three friends with k04 b5s4s, and want to pull with them on the highway or from a dig.

I know my mounts/busings etc, brakes and suspension and clutch/trans had better be up to the task before I put down serious power. Forged internals, FMIC, w/m injection and standalone are on the list. From there I start to wonder about turbo choice.

[PRY4SNO]

I definitely recommend Impact coatings here in Edmonton.

They may take a bit longer than they quote, but they're super busy and diligent about their work.

[PRY4SNO]

[PRY4SNO]

[mhorsfield]

so clean

[PRY4SNO]

so clean

Thanks, she's getting there!


Tried making a tool to take the strut top mounts off, but despite our best efforts the nut just wanted to round off. Will try it again later with an impact gun when I move down to the (B) items on my punch list.






DON'T do what I did here; before you attach the lines at the back of the PS rack, install the steering dampener and bracket first. Save the gigantic PITA of redoing everything.




Went to take off the front TB cover, and of course, rounded the inside of the hex-bolt so I'll have to pound a 12-point onto it to get her off.



Not so sure what the deal is here, three wires are terminated with insulating tape. WTF? Could this actually be the cause of my non-functional cruise control? (Just a guess)




Figured this coolant nipple was looking a little rough so, while I'm in there, might as well replace the thing.






And almost on cue, a stud which broke off during IM removal would not take heat and thus be coaxed out. So. Drastic measures ensued. Help, or BTDT advice is especially appreciated!!! Tired using a drill-bit easy-out but just wouldn't bite. So we drilled it out and will tap the hole once I confirm the proper size. I hear I should use a heli-coil... can anyone confirm/deny?





Now all I have to do is convince the stealership to loan me VW/AUDI tool 2084 to lock out the crank and I can do the TB.

Unless you have a better method to do so while the engine's on a stand (no FW installed)?

[PRY4SNO]

Was dreading taking off the crank pulley for replacement and as part of a timing belt replacement, largely because of the amount of torque on the crank bolt and the that I was missing a required tool for the job, VW 2084 (see above ^^^).

Of course the only place in town that had one was Southrape the local stealership. And they flat out refused to loan me the tool even with a $500 deposit. Then they wouldn't even entertain selling me the tool and ordering themselves in another one. Best the shop service manager offered to do was order it for me, at retail :jerk: , and I'd still be waiting as long as I would if I'd just went through ZDMack via eBay.

Now that it was down to principle, I said screw you I'll just make my own.













Once it was mocked up, only one original hole needed to be notched about 1/16" to fit up nicely.





The only difference was that using this flat bar tool for a crank lock out device meant you needed a person to watch the crank and make sure it doesn't drift while breaking the crank bolt. For whatever reason, this presented no issues for me and came off nice and easy. Score one for the good guys!



What did happen was two of the four smaller hex-head bolts that go around the crank bolt rounded during removal, so we drilled the bolt heads off and turned the studs out nice and smooth.



Same thing happened to the bolts on the outer TB cover, so using the same method to release the others, and... voila! I now have all the access I require for the work I'm about to commence.

[PRY4SNO]

:bump: :bump: :bump: :bump:





:woowoo: :woowoo:

[pitts]

Lower Crank/timing gear is cracked?

[WOMBAT]

:stupid: looks like a crack, replace that somb*tch!

Awesome work, turning out to be really extensive! ....always does though

[PRY4SNO]

Update...

Thanks for the sharp eyes boys! Crank pulley cog is ordered and due to arrive today or tomorrow.

Sent the head off to be repaired at the coolant jacket after a trapped stud refused to come out nicely. Overall very happy with the work they did and will look forward to using EC Automotive Machining in the future.






Before taking the head to the machine shop, however, they asked the cams and chain and mains be removed.




When I got it back, there were a ton of chips/flakes (not exactly like swarf) left over from the machining process in the top of my head... but nothing a clean rag and some brake cleaner couldn't handle.



Properly timed, but noticed a seal is worn out. No biggie, I have one in my stores, just need to add it to the punch list.



(My guess is to strap everything ^^^ down and take the cam pulley \/ off)




What I don't have on hand is a distributor... do I need a new one now with this chipped gear?

[Kliminati]

Your coupe is coming along very nicely. What was done to you bag o snakes? Is that some kind of reflective thermal coating or is it polished down?

[WOMBAT]

Looks like jet-hot ceramic coating... Secks. I want a 7A car again just to flash those around!