Justin's B7 RS4 - needs a new heart! Break in Oil Recs?

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Re: Justin's B7 RS4 - needs a new heart! Break in Oil Recs?

Postby chaloux » Wed Apr 19, 2017 8:07 am

I think....... There might be something wrong with you.
Matt

01 Allroad 6speed - RS4 clutch, catless downpipes, stuklr tune
04 Jetta TDI - DC stage I clutch/14lb fw
DEATH by rust - 96 Audi A6 Avant 2.5l TDI
GONE :( 87 4ktq - 4 FOX SNAKES
DEAD :( - 1996 S6 mit TDI
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Re: Justin's B7 RS4 - needs a new heart! Break in Oil Recs?

Postby WOMBAT » Wed Apr 19, 2017 8:16 am

Incredible work! Awesome attention to detail and SOOO CLEAN!! This hard work will pay off!
Casey O

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Past Projects:
- 07 Cooper S - 91 200 20vt - 91 90 20v - 85 4000CS - 96 Audi Cabriolet 5 Spd - 02 A4 1.8T - 91 V8 5 Spd - 01 A6 2.7T 6 Spd Sport - 86 5000CS - 91 100
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Re: Justin's B7 RS4 - needs a new heart! Break in Oil Recs?

Postby viridia » Wed Apr 19, 2017 9:59 am

Take good care of the A/C compressor since new ones are not cheap! The crowd over on Audizine think they fail on a fairly consistent mileage basis. Some new PAG oil will go a long way, though.
87 4k, 90 f350, 91 v8, 93 v8, 04 s4
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Re: Justin's B7 RS4 - needs a new heart! Break in Oil Recs?

Postby jretal » Wed Apr 19, 2017 1:29 pm

chaloux wrote:I think....... There might be something wrong with you.


Tell me something I don't know :)

WOMBAT wrote:Incredible work! Awesome attention to detail and SOOO CLEAN!! This hard work will pay off!


I find myself sitting back and just staring at that engine from time to time... nothing like clean/fresh Aluminum! :)

viridia wrote:Take good care of the A/C compressor since new ones are not cheap! The crowd over on Audizine think they fail on a fairly consistent mileage basis. Some new PAG oil will go a long way, though.


You know what that mileage interval is? Not that a reman'd one has any more of a guarantee of surviving - but worth asking! This would be an absolute pain in the ass to change while in the car!
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Re: Justin's B7 RS4 - needs a new heart! Break in Oil Recs?

Postby jretal » Tue Sep 05, 2017 7:53 am

Well… I was hoping by this point that I’d have videos of the car’s first fire, bottles of champagne being popped, and general giddiness and excitement, but alas – life has its own ways of occupying time with other priorities.

At the end of the last edition, I had the motor assembled and ready to receive its flywheel, clutch, trans, etc. and get into the car… so in April, before the big kitchen renovation started on 6 May (full gut to studs, new electrical, new lighting, new floor/tile, new walls, new cabinets/countertops… did I mention I was doing this on my own w/ the help of some very good friends and father throughout the adventure?), I charged ahead in an attempt to get the motor into the car so it was at least out of the way for the kitchen cabinet work in the garage. Alas, I failed that… but not without a fight!

With the motor assembled and ready to go, I started the work to get it ready to receive the transmission… so step one, flywheel!

Before getting too crazy, I had to get a new pilot bearing installed. With the older 5cyl cars I’ve worked on, the bearing was open on the back and you could pack it w/ grease and pop it out w/ a dowel. There were two issues with this on the RS flywheel… a) the pilot bearing was closed and b) the flywheel wasn’t installed on the motor! So the other trick of drilling a hole in the back and threading a tap into it and pushing/pulling it out w/ leverage against the crank was also not an option! So it was time to get creative.

First off, I needed to be able to press the bearing out into something, while still supporting the surrounding area on the flywheel, so I took the new pilot bearing and found which socket it fit nicely within…

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Once I found that socket, I had to make sure it stayed centered in the area where I needed to support, which was why you saw painters tape on the previous pic!

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With that figured out, I flipped the flywheel over onto the centered socket and grabbed another socket to pound out the pilot bearing…

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And after a little bit of hammering… whalah!

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Install was the reverse of removal, so nothing crazy there. One thing to take note of was to measure (before removing) how inset the original pilot bearing was in the flywheel, so that you can set the new one at the same setting.

Next step was to get the flywheel onto the motor - So it was time get the motor off the stand and ready to receive!

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And then get the flywheel loosely installed with its new hardware:

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The next was torqueing everything down with only one person… and missing the proper tool to lock the flywheel down. On the old 5 cyl motors, I was able to weld up my own crank holding tool which locked the front pulley down and allowed you to torque everything down. On the newer cars, they now have a funky tool that locks into the teeth of the flywheel instead. In lieu of that tool, I set up my own “tool” to hold the crank in place. This is the trick that friends (previous mechanic, etc.) have used on the 2.7T motors instead of the tool as well.

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Now, in reality, there’s nothing too crazy about this… the issue that came about though was that, as you torqued down on the flywheel bolts, the motor started to twist/rotate! So, again, without a second pair of hands – we improvise!

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Little shade tree, but it worked. I was able to get everything torqued down and marked. Next up was a brand new LUK clutch kit

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And after torqueing down all the pressure plate bolts, we were ready to rock!

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After about 40ish minutes of finagling, swearing, more finagling, and a little more tweaking, I was finally able to get everything lined up so that the trans input shaft would slide into the clutch plate. This of course happened b/c my 3 yr old son decided to come over and “help” daddy by pulling on the jack handle… and suddenly, everything lined up and slide together like it was supposed to. Ain’t it a b!tch when that happens? :)

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And here’s where she sat… as this was as far as I was able to make it before the kitchen work hit full tilt.

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So b/n May and now, I’ve been able to do a few odds and ends.

On the transmission side - I decided that while everything was apart (doom of “while you’re in there”), I’d “upgrade” the plastic slave cylinder to a metal one. A local RS member was liquidating his upgrade list that didn’t make it onto his car before he sold it, so I picked up a USP slave cylinder kit for a decent deal. When I went to line everything up, I really didn’t like what USP was trying to do.

The OEM setup has a hardline that goes from the clutch master cylinder through the firewall, and then just above the transmission it transitions to a flex hose that goes down to the slave cylinder. The flexible hose that Audi uses is a bit excessive/complex (90 degree angles, joints, etc.). This kit replaces everything from the clutch master ALL the way to the slave with one single hose. I know many people claim that this will make the clutch feel so much better, etc. In reality, I saw this as marketing ability to hit multiple platforms (RS, S, A) with a single kit.

Here’s the OEM slave plus flex line w/ the USP line next to it:

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From what I could tell, the flex section b/n the RS, the S and the A are all different… so instead of 3 hose kits, they can knock them all off with one. Now, there’s nothing WRONG with this – but I didn’t like it. The factory hard line is tucked in tightly against the firewall, and would have been a ROYAL PITA to remove, even with the motor removed. So instead of using the supplied hose, I decided to have my own stainless line made and sold off the hose supplied with the kit.

So what I came up with was to adapt the metal bracket that was used on the OEM plastic slave and attach it to the metal slave.

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This allows me to secure the new flex line to reduce stress on the joint, plus ensure that it stayed away from the linkage and various other things going on at the back of the RS motor:

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The other thing I tackled was to rebuild the inner joints on the front axles. Both boots were torn when I picked up the car, so this was one of the maintenance items that I needed to tackle outside of the motor. I had never tackled the tripod type inner joints before, so this was new. The fact that you just hammer the cup off seemed really strange to me, but all research and DIYs that I found said “this was the way.” So with my deadblow hammer in hand, I pulled off the cup, used my pulley puller to pop off the bearing piece, and off we went!

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Once everything was leaned up, I then popped on the new retainer clip… ahhh the many ways to use your sockets :)

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And whalah!

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Rinse and repeat for the other side and we were ready.

And this brings you up to this week. I have finally finished the last few niggling things I needed to get done on the kitchen, so I could start redirecting my attention BACK to the car. So over our long weekend, I went into the garage and started to button up the last few things onto the motor/trans assembly.

So w/ the downpipes now installed… it’s time to go back to her home… almost a year to the day of me pulling the motor the motor initially (2 Sept 2016)

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Hopefully the next update will have vroom vroom noises and giggles from yours truly!

Hope you enjoyed the show! Until next time...
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Re: Justin's B7 RS4 - needs a new heart! Break in Oil Recs?

Postby chaloux » Tue Sep 05, 2017 9:11 pm

jretal wrote: The fact that you just hammer the cup off seemed really strange to me, but all research and DIYs that I found said “this was the way.” So with my deadblow hammer in hand, I pulled off the cup, used my pulley puller to pop off the bearing piece, and off we went!


Yup. When I did one of my Allroad axles and didn't have the internet at the shop, I stood and stared at that thing for a while before I just said, "well... here goes nothing" and whacked it with a rubber mallet until it came off. Cleaned and packed with new grease it was buttery smooth after. I have to do the other side now, but I was really surprised how tough these CV joints are. Nice work on all the other stuff as well BTW, and no shame on not having it done yet. Keep it up!
Matt

01 Allroad 6speed - RS4 clutch, catless downpipes, stuklr tune
04 Jetta TDI - DC stage I clutch/14lb fw
DEATH by rust - 96 Audi A6 Avant 2.5l TDI
GONE :( 87 4ktq - 4 FOX SNAKES
DEAD :( - 1996 S6 mit TDI
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Re: Justin's B7 RS4 - needs a new heart! Break in Oil Recs?

Postby PRY4SNO » Tue Sep 05, 2017 11:01 pm

chaloux wrote:Nice work on all the other stuff as well BTW, and no shame on not having it done yet. Keep it up!


Wholeheartedly agree with Matt.

I'd rather see it done right, than done poorly. Your car deserves it.

Life has a way of interfering at times, glad you've mustered the energy and gumption to push through and post some solutions and motivations for the rest of us. Really like what you've figured out with the slave line.
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|| 2010 Golf Sportwagen TDI /// Wifey mobile
|| 1992 80 quattro 20v /// Eventual AAN'd Winter Sled
|| 1990 Coupe quattro /// Because Racecar

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Re: Justin's B7 RS4 - needs a new heart! Break in Oil Recs?

Postby jretal » Wed Sep 06, 2017 9:26 am

Thanks, fellas... def no shame in the time table, but there is slight frustration. I've owned the car for 2 years at this point, and I'm growing weary of DD'ing my mountaineer... lol. I know I'm getting desperate when I'm thinking of rowing through gears in my RS as I'm cruising down the highway on in the 'ol SUV! :) The real kick in the pants is, if I had a solid 2 days to work on this (16hrs), I can promise it'd be down on the ground and running again... but w/ work, 2 kids, etc. it's not that easy anymore.

Really like what you've figured out with the slave line.


Thanks! People on AZ were slightly shocked that I didn't like what USP did with the line, and many said how it improved pedal feel, etc. Peoples' feet/legs must be more sensitive than mine, as I have a hard time seeing how a braided steel line will perform better than a hard metal line! That whole conversion had mixed reviews when I searched for it (i.e. was it really worth it or not, hard to tell), but for what I paid, it'll be fine. I was able to sell the USP line and cover the new line +$20 or something around there to pay down the "upgrade." Helluva lot better to tackle it now vs. once everything is back in the car!
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Re: Justin's B7 RS4 - needs a new heart! Break in Oil Recs?

Postby vt10vt » Mon Sep 11, 2017 11:49 am

Looking good Justin! Love the attention to detail and amount of "while I'm in there." Going to feel good going down the road after all this!
-Shawn C.
2002 01E B6 A4 Built FYF, Built 1.8T, HX35 ~330whp
2001 S4 6spd Avant blk/blk, bone stock
1989 MC-1 200 Avant- MS1 MSnS -Gone but will never forget her lessons
1987 5ktq Sedan - Best $500 beater ever
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Re: Justin's B7 RS4 - needs a new heart! Break in Oil Recs?

Postby pete82 » Sun Oct 08, 2017 2:32 pm

Nice thread, I like how you've been detailing what you are doing as you progress.

Is the car dolphin gray or something like daytona gray?
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Re: Justin's B7 RS4 - needs a new heart! Break in Oil Recs?

Postby jretal » Fri Oct 13, 2017 10:21 am

pete82 wrote:Nice thread, I like how you've been detailing what you are doing as you progress.

Is the car dolphin gray or something like daytona gray?


It's Daytona Gray - which I believe is an RS only color, but could be mistaken.

It really pops in the sun when clean. Right now, it's a dull brown/gray from saw dust/dirt from sitting in the garage. Even the cobwebs are dusty at this point! :)
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