Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: Summer Break

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Re: Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: Swap Phase 2

Postby the german » Wed Apr 12, 2017 4:31 pm

Ok, this is a different one- it was sitting in a parking lot in Palo Alto for ~10 years before I got it, and I have history of it being in California for a few years before that.
Kirk

1990 ABZ CQ
1990 lifted CQ
2005 S4 6MT
2011 A4 2.0T Avant (ok, it's my wife's car but it's sexy and I love it)
the german
 
Posts: 536
Joined: Feb 15, 2014
Location: Bellevue, WA

Re: Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: Swap Phase 2

Postby the german » Sun Apr 16, 2017 11:23 pm

Picture heavy update :)

First off, I want to update with the correct engine mounting brackets to put a 1.8T (AEB) in a B3 chassis car. They are:

Left: 8A0 199 307C (Audi 80 w/ 2.0 ABK)
Right: 8A0 199 308J (Audi Cabrio w/ ADR)

I picked up my missing puzzle piece (the right engine bracket) while I was in Germany for work a week ago and couldn't wait to get it on the engine and test fit it to see what other problems I would inevitably run into. ;)

Here it is on the engine:
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Problem #1: transmission is huge and hits the front lift subframe cross-member. Crudely hacked it out while still in the car so that I could continue with test fitting

Problem #2: cylinder head hit the battery box, so it had to get cut back. This means the big fancy battery I just bought will have to go somewhere else. I haven't figured out what yet, but Alex tells me the B4 battery tray will bolt it. I'll have to look at that and see if it will work for me.
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Problem #3: Vacuum port for the brakes runs into the master cylinder (not shown, but I already converted to vacuum boosted using a booster from a B4 I found in the junkyard). I pulled the metal tube out of the intake manifold for now and will figure that out later.
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Problem #4: Transmission case hits the steering rack. Solved this by grinding down the rib on the transmission case.
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OK, now finally getting the engine in place. Woohoo!! It fits in nicely, thought I do have to install the motor mounts after it is moved into position as the trans case is too tall to allow it being dropped down onto them.
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I held the winch mount in place to see how much space I'm going to have for the radiator. Looks like there is going to be LOADS of space. Score.
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Next up is transmission mounts. My wishful thinking that things might just line up was clearly not founded in reality. Not even close. LOL :lol:
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So of course I fabricated a set of mounts to fit the B3 subframe. This is really the fun part. I used some 1/8" steel I had sitting in my bin of scrap metal/material.
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And with that, the engine and transmission fit in the car.

Next up: shifter. Rather awesomely, Audi used the same opening size and and mounting hole pattern in the B3 and B5 chassis cars. The only real difference is the that B3 shifter assembly bolt in to captive nuts, where the B5 uses studs in the shifter box. I like the sealed design of the B5 so I just drilled the threads out of the captive nuts on the chassis and bolted it in. Something had to be easy, right?!
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That done, I dropped the front subframe to deal with modifying the lift frame I hacked up to fit the transmission in. One of the issues I had with the one-piece lift subframe was that there was no way to pull the trans without pulling the engine. I am solving that by going to a 3-piece subframe with a removable crossmember. Here is what I cut out:
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Made some new brackets to be welded on:
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OK, now on to dealing with some damage from hitting the curb while playing in the snow. The front left control arm was badly bent, but luckily I found a set of cast ones on the same car that donated the vacuum booster. A new set of bushings and they went in.
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And back into the car:
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Last edited by the german on Sun Apr 16, 2017 11:43 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Kirk

1990 ABZ CQ
1990 lifted CQ
2005 S4 6MT
2011 A4 2.0T Avant (ok, it's my wife's car but it's sexy and I love it)
the german
 
Posts: 536
Joined: Feb 15, 2014
Location: Bellevue, WA

Re: Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: Swap Phase 2

Postby the german » Sun Apr 16, 2017 11:30 pm

OK, one more issue I ran into was that I noticed the steering rack was leaking from the boot. I pulled it back and it was full of hydraulic fluid. I was hoping I would just be able to replace an oil seal from this end, but that's not how the rack is put together. In looking at it, it appears that the fluid may be coming out of the hole circled here but I know nothing about these racks. Does anybody know about them? Is it worth tearing it appart to replace the seal or should I just swap it out for a non-leaking one?

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Last edited by the german on Wed May 17, 2017 12:18 am, edited 1 time in total.
Kirk

1990 ABZ CQ
1990 lifted CQ
2005 S4 6MT
2011 A4 2.0T Avant (ok, it's my wife's car but it's sexy and I love it)
the german
 
Posts: 536
Joined: Feb 15, 2014
Location: Bellevue, WA

Re: Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: Swap Phase 2

Postby the german » Sat Apr 29, 2017 12:31 am

For the power steering rack I looked at options to just replace it, but prices ranged from ~$130 for a no-name Chineese rack on ebay, $230 for what appears to be a bomb-can "rebuilt" rack on ebay, or $500+ for a reputable one, but nobody I called was actually able to get one. Since "rebuilding" a steering rack consits of nothing more than cleaning it and replacing all the seals, I decided to just rebuild it myself.

I spent entirely too long researching this so for those who are interested the rebuild kit is PN# 8756 made by Plews & Edelmann and distributed through pretty much every auto parts store as a special order item. I bought it from my local O'reileys who private label it as Master Pro for a whopping $193 after tax and shipping. That's some damn expensive o-rings. Manufacture date was 2003 and I'm guessing they won't be making more of them.

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I spent over an hour cleaning the decades of grime off my rack before starting, and eventually ended up with this:

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Rebuild is pretty simple- just take it all appart, take out the old seals, replace with the similar looking ones from the kit, and put it all back together with some dielectric grease to lube the seals. Here is what all came out:

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With that, the rack went back together and went back in the car. The steering stabilize was also shot, so I ordered a Mercedes replacement which is supposedly a direct replacement for $23 on ebay (the Audi ones are over $100).

Did some work on the interior as well. I got all the wiring pulled through the firewall and all the splicing between the B5 and B3 harnesses done. This what a fair bit more complicated than typical 1.8t swaps because I'm also swapping in the B5 cluster and have the addition of the TCU. If anyone is interested in the wiring spreadsheet, just message me and I'll send it to you. The ECU went under the dash on the driver's side, and the TCU went into the original location of the 7A ECU.

Wiring done, tested, and tied up, I turned some attention to making the interior trim fit. Since the B5 cluster has Voltage and Oil Temp gauges built into it, this means my Auxilairy gauges can be re-purposed a bit. I took the Voltage gauge out and replaced it with a nice VDO boost gauge, which conveniently came with the A4 donor car.

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The Oil temp gauge will be re-purposed to be a transmission temperature gauge. More on that to come.

It took a fair bit of trimming and fitting to get the automatic shifter assembly to fit with the B3 console trim. I still have some work to do here, but it's actually coming out better than I thought it might.

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In preparating for putting the engine in for the last time, I decided to get rid of the original battery box altogether. Chopped it out with the cut-off wheel, ground it smooth, and primed the bare metal so it wont rust. I'm not bothering with trying to paint match the engine bay of this car.

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I noted before that the vacuum port for the brake booster was hitting on the master cylinder and needed to be reworked. I tapped the manifold and threaded in a 90* elbow to a 3/8" barb, but in test fitting the engine (again) it is still to close to the master cylinder.

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I ended up plugging that port and drilling and tapping a new location on the side of the manifold.

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More to come later this weekend!
Kirk

1990 ABZ CQ
1990 lifted CQ
2005 S4 6MT
2011 A4 2.0T Avant (ok, it's my wife's car but it's sexy and I love it)
the german
 
Posts: 536
Joined: Feb 15, 2014
Location: Bellevue, WA

Re: Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: Swap Phase 2

Postby Grillage » Sat Apr 29, 2017 3:32 pm

This is a great project! I'm enjoying watching it unfold
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1995 90 Quattro
1994 Cabriolet - 5 speed
1986 Maserati Biturbo Spyder
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1993 Audi 90 CS Quattro - 1990 CQ - V8 - 1995.5 Audi S6 - 1993 Audi V8 - 2013 A5 Prestige
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Re: Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: Swap Phase 2

Postby Einbilden » Sat Apr 29, 2017 9:50 pm

:metoo:

Wow nice progress! Really like the mounts. I Love Hand Made Parts.......Period!!!!!!!!
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Re: Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: Swap Phase 2

Postby the german » Sat Apr 29, 2017 10:46 pm

Grillage wrote:This is a great project! I'm enjoying watching it unfold



Einbilden wrote::metoo:

Wow nice progress! Really like the mounts. I Love Hand Made Parts.......Period!!!!!!!!



Thanks guys! I'm glad you are enjoying it. :) Since I mostly just document what I've already done, I tend to feel like I'm talking to myself on here. It's nice to hear that someone likes reading my ramblings. :lol:
Kirk

1990 ABZ CQ
1990 lifted CQ
2005 S4 6MT
2011 A4 2.0T Avant (ok, it's my wife's car but it's sexy and I love it)
the german
 
Posts: 536
Joined: Feb 15, 2014
Location: Bellevue, WA

Re: Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: Swap Phase 2

Postby the german » Sun Apr 30, 2017 12:05 am

The engine and trans are finally bolted into the car and I've started hooking everything up which is immensely rewarding after having no engine in the car for the last month.

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The power steering is all plumbed which was a simple affair. The line from the reservoir to the pump is the stock b3 corrugated cooler line which I'm using because I decided to simplify and not use the B5 one that went in front of the radiator. The line from the pump to the rack is the stock B3 line (with a bit of tweaking to make it fit), and the return line from the rack to the reservoir is a shortened section from the B5. No custom hydraulic hoses needed. I love when that works out.

Engine and transmission wiring are all connected, leaving just the battery connections to sort out when I finally decide where the battery is going to go.

I found the stock 7a throttle cable was too short for the AEB, so I carefully trimmed the cable housing shorter to make it the correct length. I've used this trick a number of times and it works pretty well, just takes some careful work with a cutoff wheel being careful not to get the actual cable.

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I need to stop at the junkyard to grab another quick-connect for the heater, but one of the heater hoses is done and the coolant reservoir is in and plumbed.

My original plan was to stick the stock A4 intercooler where the 7a radiator used to be, but it doesn't really fit. I'm guessing I'll end up with a small front mount, but I'll have to figure that out a little farther down the road.

Next up was figuring out my driveline and axles. I measures the 5HP19FLA automatic transmission to be almost exactly 3.75" longer than the 01a, so that's what I expected to have to take off. Just to be sure, I made an overly complex combination of zip ties, rules, and a measuring tape to check that translates to will still be correct now that the trans is in the car. I measured 3.5" from the end of the prop shaft to the face of the output flange, so 3.75" to allow some play in the CV joint should be perfect.

The axles are another story altogether...

I grabbed a set of front axles out of a B4 cabriolet from the junkyard a while back figuring that they might bolt up to the Automatic trans and fit the B3 hubs. The good news is that they do. The automatic trans is a lot wider than the manual trans was, and the diff hanging off the passenger side makes it so the axle shafts are unequal length.

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In test fitting now that the trans is in the car, I found that the short cabriolet axle fits *perfectly* in the drivers side of the coupe (the long side).

OK, two steps forward, one step back.

Naturally, the passenger side is a totally different story. I couldn't even bolt an axle in with the lift subframe in place so I cut a section out.

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The axle is so short on this side that the angle is too extreame to function properly due to the suspension lift. I only have ~1" of droop until the strut housing hits the axle shaft.

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In exploring my options, I have room to move the engine down which would help improve the angle. I dropped the front of my engine 2" (as far as it can go) and measured the corresponding drop at the axle flange. For each 1" of engine drop I get 3/16" drop at the axle flange. On the transmission side, I can drop ~1/2". Not really significant enough for my needs. I have some ideas for solutions, but I need to do some trig to flesh them out a bit.

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Kirk

1990 ABZ CQ
1990 lifted CQ
2005 S4 6MT
2011 A4 2.0T Avant (ok, it's my wife's car but it's sexy and I love it)
the german
 
Posts: 536
Joined: Feb 15, 2014
Location: Bellevue, WA

Re: Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: Swap Phase 2

Postby PRY4SNO » Sun Apr 30, 2017 11:17 am

Definitely not talking to yourself, Kirk. I'd count myself among the silent masses who follow along and are impressed to the point of being gobsmacked. The scope of your projects is always what makes me click the first time, the details and execution is what keeps me coming back.
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Re: Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: Swap Phase 2

Postby Foscora » Mon May 01, 2017 10:17 am

the german wrote:I tend to feel like I'm talking to myself on here.

Untrue !

The main reason I don't post is bc I'm way too inexperienced in this stuff ! But I do like your posts, I (try to) learn a lot through them.
As a future proof, a friend is building a subframe lift kit for his 32B Passat Syncro inspired by your work ;)

I'm curious to see your solution for the subframe with the 4cyl tho !
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Re: Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: Swap Phase 2

Postby the german » Mon May 01, 2017 10:34 pm

PRY4SNO wrote:Definitely not talking to yourself, Kirk. I'd count myself among the silent masses who follow along and are impressed to the point of being gobsmacked. The scope of your projects is always what makes me click the first time, the details and execution is what keeps me coming back.


That is very nice of you to say, thank you! I tend to do the same thing with the threads I enjoy reading the most. :D

Foscora wrote:
the german wrote:I tend to feel like I'm talking to myself on here.

Untrue !

The main reason I don't post is bc I'm way too inexperienced in this stuff ! But I do like your posts, I (try to) learn a lot through them.
As a future proof, a friend is building a subframe lift kit for his 32B Passat Syncro inspired by your work ;)

I'm curious to see your solution for the subframe with the 4cyl tho !


Ha! Glad to hear there will be other silly lifted VW/Audis running around out there! Thanks!

The solution I'm currently working out holds true to the spirit of scope creep that seems to define this project. Stay tuned ;)
Kirk

1990 ABZ CQ
1990 lifted CQ
2005 S4 6MT
2011 A4 2.0T Avant (ok, it's my wife's car but it's sexy and I love it)
the german
 
Posts: 536
Joined: Feb 15, 2014
Location: Bellevue, WA

Re: Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: It runs!

Postby the german » Mon May 01, 2017 11:12 pm

Ok, short bit of progress today. I'm waiting on some parts to arrive, so I'm ticking off some work items I can take care of in the interim.

Fist up, I stopped at the local junkyard on Sunday morning to pick up a few 90* quick disconnect ends for the heater core hoses. I used those to finish up both heater hoses this morning, then started working on the fuel lines.

The A4 that the 1.8T came from doesn't use the nice removable fuel lines like the CQ does, but I wanted to retain that feature. To do this I just cut off the crimp collar from the coupe fuel line and took out the end I wanted to use on the 1.8T fuel line. I considered taking these to the local hose shop to have a new crimp collar put on like the original, but decide that was overkill for this car since I'm not really worried about making it all look OEM.

Side by side:
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Careful cuts with the cut-off wheel:
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All done!
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And now, for the first time ever, this car has a turbo attached to it!
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A while back, I purchased a full set of A4 silicone hoses.. mostly just because they were shiny and look nice. I pulled them out to start looking at intake plumbing but quickly decided I needed to have more of the front end on before that would be meaningful in any way.

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And finally, seeking some quick satisfaction before calling it quits, I decided to test fire the engine for the first time. I put oil in the engine, connected the battery with jumper cables, and here she is! Started right up on the first shot!



And the last thing I did was take some more measurements to use in sorting out my axle problem. This probably won't mean much to anyone other than me, but I'm putting it here so I can reference it later if needed.

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Kirk

1990 ABZ CQ
1990 lifted CQ
2005 S4 6MT
2011 A4 2.0T Avant (ok, it's my wife's car but it's sexy and I love it)
the german
 
Posts: 536
Joined: Feb 15, 2014
Location: Bellevue, WA

Re: Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: It runs!

Postby Einbilden » Tue May 02, 2017 12:53 am

Keep it coming, but do me a favor and please paint on of the cars. Hard to stay on top of things with all white cars and all. :lol:
Mike
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Re: Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: It runs!

Postby the german » Fri May 12, 2017 11:43 pm

Hahaha only one white car now! the donor B5 shell is gone :)
Kirk

1990 ABZ CQ
1990 lifted CQ
2005 S4 6MT
2011 A4 2.0T Avant (ok, it's my wife's car but it's sexy and I love it)
the german
 
Posts: 536
Joined: Feb 15, 2014
Location: Bellevue, WA

Re: Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: It runs!

Postby the german » Sat May 13, 2017 12:16 am

Been busy making stuff.

First up, exhaust. The stock downpipe on the B5 went over the axle, and I stuck it in place and discovered that it actually fit in the B3. This means the exhaust has a much more direct route and doesn't hang low like it would if I went below the axle and under the subframe.

My original plan was to use the stock B5 piece and fill in the area where the cat used to be, but with the tie-rod placement in the B3 the geometry didn't really work so I decided to just make a whole new one and increase the size while I was at it.

Here is part of the stock B5 piece next to the start of my downpipe:
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Here is how it fits in the car. This is worst-case scenario (full lock and full droop).
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All done. I have to say, I'm rather proud of this one. It's the nicest fitting exhaust I have done using an angle grinder to do all the cutting and fitting.
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It now runs near the fuel lines by the firewall, so to avoid boiling the fuel in the lines I'm taking some extra steps to insulate. Wrapped up in DEI Titanium wrap and made an aluminum heat shield:
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Then I turned to to getting the radiator mounted in the car so I could see what kind of space I'll have for an intercooler. I want it to mount using the little rubber bushing like stock, so I make a custom stainless steel lower core support.

Here is a few pictures of the process:
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And complete!
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I'm ecstatic with the fitment in the car.
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More to come later!
Kirk

1990 ABZ CQ
1990 lifted CQ
2005 S4 6MT
2011 A4 2.0T Avant (ok, it's my wife's car but it's sexy and I love it)
the german
 
Posts: 536
Joined: Feb 15, 2014
Location: Bellevue, WA

Re: Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: It runs!

Postby the german » Sat May 13, 2017 12:35 am

One more thing- the Mercedes steering stabilizer fits perfectly.

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Kirk

1990 ABZ CQ
1990 lifted CQ
2005 S4 6MT
2011 A4 2.0T Avant (ok, it's my wife's car but it's sexy and I love it)
the german
 
Posts: 536
Joined: Feb 15, 2014
Location: Bellevue, WA

Re: Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: It runs!

Postby alxdgr8 » Sat May 13, 2017 11:31 am

Looks great. I'd try not to use a clamp on the high pressure fuel line though. I have the part numbers somewhere for the proper metric bubble flare to -AN or you can use an oring adapter like many people use.

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1992 Porsche 968 (07K transplant in progress)
1983 Aud UrQ (20vt swap in progress)
1995 Audi 90QS (Previously 32v V8, now AEB 1.8T)
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Re: Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: It runs!

Postby the german » Sat May 13, 2017 2:02 pm

Thanks alex!

The b5 actually uses clamps from the factory, and the ones I used are designed for fuel and meet OEM spec.
Kirk

1990 ABZ CQ
1990 lifted CQ
2005 S4 6MT
2011 A4 2.0T Avant (ok, it's my wife's car but it's sexy and I love it)
the german
 
Posts: 536
Joined: Feb 15, 2014
Location: Bellevue, WA

Re: Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: It runs!

Postby Foscora » Sat May 13, 2017 7:37 pm

That radiator bracket :drool:

Interesting Mercedes stabilizer ! Do you have a reference to share ? That'd be awesome !
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Re: Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: It runs!

Postby the german » Sun May 14, 2017 12:41 am

Thanks! :)

Here is a link to the steering stabilizer on ECS:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-stabilus-parts/steering-damper/1244630432~sta/
Kirk

1990 ABZ CQ
1990 lifted CQ
2005 S4 6MT
2011 A4 2.0T Avant (ok, it's my wife's car but it's sexy and I love it)
the german
 
Posts: 536
Joined: Feb 15, 2014
Location: Bellevue, WA

Re: Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: It runs!

Postby the german » Wed May 17, 2017 1:02 am

Update from the weekend and the last two evenings:

I got the driveline back from the shop that shortened it and it looks good. The local shop (Drivelines NW) took one look at it and told me they wouldn't touch it since the ends are friction welded on, but were happy to tell me they could make a custom one for $600-900. No thanks.

Luckily there is a shop about 1.5 hours from here (Bellingham Driveline Services) which had done similar work for me in the past, and they were happy to do it again. Cost me $16 to mail the driveline up there (worth it!) and $188 to get it shortened and mailed back. Thanks again Rich!

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I got that installed then buttoned up the exhaust installation as well. It all seems to fit nicely.
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Next up, transmission temp gauge. Since I converted to the B5 cluster which has it's own oil temp gauge, I decided to re-purpose the one in the console into a transmission temp gauge. This way I will be able to keep an eye on trans temp. while wheeling this thing which is pretty important with an auto. The stock oil temp sender from the 5 cylinder motors uses a huge M22x1.5 thread, so I contacted VDO to see if there was a smaller sender available with the same response characteristics. No dice.

It took a custom order and 3 weeks to get, but for $5 the local specialty hardware store (Tacoma Screw) was able to get me a stainless M22x1.5 nut to use as a weld-in bung on the transmission:
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Turned a stop into it for welding:
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Used a 1" hole saw to cut a hole in the transmission sump pan:
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Because the nut is so huge, it has to be welded on the inside of the pan (no space for the TIG torch around the outside):
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Welded the outside edges that were easily accessible for added strength:
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And finally, painted and installed:
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I also did a bit of work on getting the airbox and intake hoses fitted. I really want to have an airbox so that if I decide to install a snorkel in the future it will be easy. I tried to make the stock B5 airbox work by thermoforming it with my heat gun, but it didn't go well. I ended up just cutting it off below the panel filter and I'll make a custom bottom for it to fit. In the meantime, it will work for test-drive purposes:
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Last up for this update is battery relocation to the trunk. I decided to put it where the spare tire used to go, so I ran some heavy gauge cable back to the trunk using the clips that used to hold the seat belt tensioning cable for the Pro-Ten system. I've done this on both of my coupes now and it works great. Even use the same firewall grommet! With that, I cleaned up all the power distribution under the hood and installed a nice battery shut off switch. This was a perfect excuse to buy a new toy: a rivnut tool. Now I can put captured nuts anywhere I want them. I think it came out looking pretty nice. :)

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On the trunk end, I picked up a nice battery box that fits my massive battery on Amazon for ~$15. Since I was having so much fun making pretty stainless stuff on the front end, I decided to give the trunk the same treatment and make a nice battery tray to keep everything secure and in place:
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I ran out of daylight to make the other mounting arm tonight, but here is how it fits in the trunk. The other mounting point will use the captured nut that is there for the tire hold-down.
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More to come later in the week!
Last edited by the german on Thu May 18, 2017 9:33 am, edited 1 time in total.
Kirk

1990 ABZ CQ
1990 lifted CQ
2005 S4 6MT
2011 A4 2.0T Avant (ok, it's my wife's car but it's sexy and I love it)
the german
 
Posts: 536
Joined: Feb 15, 2014
Location: Bellevue, WA

Re: Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: It runs!

Postby the german » Wed May 17, 2017 1:07 am

Oh! I almost forgot: also decided to go with all electric fans (instead of 1 mechanical and 1 electric like the stock B5) so I mounted those on the radiator and checked space. Looks like plenty of room:

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Kirk

1990 ABZ CQ
1990 lifted CQ
2005 S4 6MT
2011 A4 2.0T Avant (ok, it's my wife's car but it's sexy and I love it)
the german
 
Posts: 536
Joined: Feb 15, 2014
Location: Bellevue, WA

Re: Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: Getting closer..

Postby Foscora » Thu May 18, 2017 12:14 am

This build's really cool. I really love the idea of the snorkel. Your battery relocation thing looks so neat so far. And as for the welded nut, thats a tight fit !
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Re: Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: Getting closer..

Postby lorge1989 » Thu May 18, 2017 7:39 am

SS stuff = yum. That front rad support looks nice. Fitting a downpipe is a bit tricky on these, yours came out great.
1988 Audi 90Q 1.8T 20v megasquirt'd and Holset'd
1994 Audi 90Q V6 oil burner, soon to be ABZ
1978 GMC High Sierra

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Re: Kirk's Lifted Audi CQ: Getting closer..

Postby WOMBAT » Thu May 18, 2017 8:27 am

Dang. This is really coming together nicely!
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- 2007 Audi A3 3.2 quattro

Past Projects:
- 07 Cooper S - 91 200 20vt - 91 90 20v - 85 4000CS - 96 Audi Cabriolet 5 Spd - 02 A4 1.8T - 91 V8 5 Spd - 01 A6 2.7T 6 Spd Sport - 86 5000CS - 91 100
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WOMBAT
 
Posts: 965
Joined: Mar 6, 2013
Location: Vermont

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