The 90Q (07k?)

[alxdgr8]

I've always read that the 07k was numbered 1-5 front-back, but the cams lock at TDC of #5 thus the front mark at #5 TDC. But I guess the way to verify is set to the rear most cylinder TDC then find out which cylinder is next and that'll verify the numbering whether it's standard or reversed.

[Afterthought]

Haven’t accomplished too much on this but I’m trying to work on getting it road worthy .
Some of the main items I need to finish :

Install interior
Finish Parking brake
Install tie rods
Alignment
Shift linkage


So I’m trying to chip away at some of these things...

First installing the interior . I wanted to swap to black anyways so before reinstalling the dash I figured I better at least put in the black carpet , that and reinstallation of the dash wasn’t too bad considering how long ago I took it out .








So... next up is the shift linkage .

My original plan was to modify the linkage and use an us4/6 shifter box inside the car , because that’s what I’ve done before with O1E . Now after thinking about it I realized that I’ve only done that on B2 and B3 is different . So I was afraid it wouldn’t work.

So after I made my linkage for this, I had ended up sourcing a shifter box from a later 01E car, so I could go with the whole b6 linkage and a b5 shifter box .

More specifically, what I’m using is this .

03 A4 GBE code 6 Speed 01E trans

But the shift linkage and shifter box is from a manual allroad 6 speed .

Specifically a b6 A4 3.0 linkage , and the box is manual allroad.

Although Im tempted to do whatever is the fastest and just get the car on the road , but I decided to go ahead and do this linkage now since it is what I wanted to have done the road anyways so I started on that. I’ve read that it can work but may need some modification .



I’m order to get at this I disconnected the exhaust , removed the driveshaft from the back of the trans, and removed the rear 2 subframe bolts which allowed me to tilt the trans down which gives me enough space to get the linkage and shifter box in and out .

First I trimmed the shifter box a little and got it bolted up inside the car . I had to drill out the existing bolt holes to accept the threaded studs that are in the shifter box , then drill 2 new holes for the front .

With that in place I can get the main shift rod to bolt up , and the cross rod . It seems like it may be a little on the longer side but it works .



That main shift rod seems like it will
Work without shortening , or may need to be shortened a very small amount to be perfect .

Where I’m held up right now is what I refer to as the “stabilizer bar “ , don’t know if that’s really the name but anyway this third rod that is fixed and just bolts to the trans .
This thing , does not clear the tunnel.



So the issue I’m having so far is , that fixed bar , stabilizer bar or whatever it is . Is hitting the tunnel so I can’t get it into place .



Here is what is causing the issue



I’ll try and keep track of what I’m
Doing for future but the first thing I did is shortened this rod by 1” . The rod is hitting the tunnel in front of the shifter box .




This is what I think would make it fit

[Afterthought]

Read through the whole 01E B3 swap thread on motorgeek now and I see that others had the same issue and made clearance in the tunnel with a hammer . I just want to see if I can make it work without doing that hammer trick .
Also it looks like they shortened both rods which I would think I’ll have to do

[Afterthought]

More to come on this . Ran out of time .

I was able to get it to fit without rubbing with the trans all the way up in place .

I removed an inch from the middle but it still was hitting the tunnel ...


So I removed 2” from the shifter box end and relocated it to the trans end .




Hard to see but it’s clearing right now with trans all the way up and shifter box in place .



So now I’ve shortened both rods a total of 1 1/4”.

Tested and it Works with all 7 gears now . “Stabilizer bar “ is still super close to the tunnel in that one spot which annoys me . But it works .
My concern I guess is that it would touch the top Of the tunnel and vibrate the car.

[highlander69]

Looking great.

Lately I'm thinking of the complete b5 or b6 tunnel installed on the b2.

Cheers

[Afterthought]

Looking great.

Lately I'm thinking of the complete b5 or b6 tunnel installed on the b2.

Cheers

Yeah i think having this setup will pay off for me but it was likely a little easier than a b2 setup. I don't know how much extra work it would take to get the B5 box in the B2 because of where the box sits between tunnel and trans. Unsure of how much clearance the B2 has, but I don't think a lot. But regardless of the hurdles someone like you could do it no problem.

I don't know of all the ways to do it, but I know there are like 3+ methods and I got confused trying to research it all.
I know that with how this linkage connects to the trans It will give you much more clearance at the front of the tunnel.
however you might be able to go with the urs4/6 shifter box in the b2 like I did before and you'll still have reverse lockout. If you don't want to get into all this.

[highlander69]

Martin Pajak did it in his 84 urq using mixture of URS4 parts and stock parts and 01e box. Turned out real nice. No tunnel mods needed

Probably similar to your previous solution.

Might be on Motorgeek somewhere

[varia]

Martin Pajak did it in his 84 urq using mixture of URS4 parts and stock parts and 01e box. Turned out real nice. No tunnel mods needed

Probably similar to your previous solution.

Might be on Motorgeek somewhere

I have that in my urq (used Pat and Sean instructions) and works well now, after modifying it numerous times, but the feeling is pretty far from the B5 linkage I have in my B3 90q.

[Lucky]

How is the shift pattern with the adjusted rods? Before I went to a cable setup I had a mixture of modified b6 linkage, jhm crossrod, and 034 short b3 shifter. My pattern was slightly turned clockwise, just enough to notice it wasn't straight back and forth. I assumed it was the crossrod causing issue.

[Afterthought]

How is the shift pattern with the adjusted rods? Before I went to a cable setup I had a mixture of modified b6 linkage, jhm crossrod, and 034 short b3 shifter. My pattern was slightly turned clockwise, just enough to notice it wasn't straight back and forth. I assumed it was the crossrod causing issue.

Mine seems to be good so far but keep in mind I haven’t driven or road tested the car yet as I have a few little things to finish up on other parts of the car before I can. I haven’t done much adjusting but it seems to be straight as far as up and down and already better than the old setup considering i didn’t adjust it and it already works .
Initially When I had started working on my setup a long time ago I was going with a modded old style setup with a custom cross rod . There was some talk that if the cross rod is not perpendicular to the shift rod then it cause cause the pattern to be off , so it sounds like it’s possible . I think Jim or Alex mentioned that

[alxdgr8]

How is the shift pattern with the adjusted rods? Before I went to a cable setup I had a mixture of modified b6 linkage, jhm crossrod, and 034 short b3 shifter. My pattern was slightly turned clockwise, just enough to notice it wasn't straight back and forth. I assumed it was the crossrod causing issue.

Wonder if that was due to using the wrong crossbar mount? On the later 6spd 01E reverse covers, there are two holes. The early (B4/C4) linkage use the aft/lower one and the later shifters use the forward/taller one IIRC.

129140952_826009027965764_5601937472505164968_n by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

B4/C4 01E didn't have the taller late mount.

128998170_466955694284916_6588708691333811233_n by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

[Lucky]

Wonder if that was due to using the wrong crossbar mount? On the later 6spd 01E reverse covers, there are two holes. The early (B4/C4) linkage use the aft/lower one and the later shifters use the forward/taller one IIRC

It's possible, the crossrod I was using was a jhm piece. It was supposed to match the fyf trans, maybe it was the wrong model?
Either way it's all swapped out now.

[Afterthought]

Wonder if that was due to using the wrong crossbar mount? On the later 6spd 01E reverse covers, there are two holes. The early (B4/C4) linkage use the aft/lower one and the later shifters use the forward/taller one IIRC

It's possible, the crossrod I was using was a jhm piece. It was supposed to match the fyf trans, maybe it was the wrong model?
Either way it's all swapped out now.

That new shifter you have looks most excellent . If I had started paying attention to those before I started all this I would have been tempted to go with that too


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Afterthought]

Im having some problems with the brakes. Basically , I cant get the brakes to work properly even when all air is bled out. The two issues could be unrelated.
Issue 1: It seems as if there is a vacuum leak (hard start, RPM increase when pushing on BRAKE pedal)
Issue 2: The brake pedal does nothing until the last inch or two, air is all out of the system but pads wont move.

Im using the Ultra Performance Engineering kit for the new dual stage vac booster. https://www.ultraperformance.co.uk/tandem-brake-booster-conversion-kit
TRW PML420 Master cylinder 8E0611021 https://www.audiusaparts.com/oem-parts/audi-master-cylinder-8e0611021
Booster 8E0612105Q listed as being from a B6 S4 . But when I look online I’m not finding that part number for the b6 , so I’m wondering if I got the wrong booster .

I've concluded that either the problem is how I did the install, or I'm using the wrong booster, or M/C. The Ultra Performance Engineering website doesn't list a specific part number for booster and MC that needs to be used but says that there are many cars that you can get the booster from. However there is a note that the booster and M/C should match, as not all are compatible with each other.
More to come on this, I've gotta dig into it.


Edit: ok , got brakes now ...





https://youtu.be/ttNZPOw7WQY